Spring is in the air. The official change of season arrives on March 20, and with it comes an abundance of fresh, local flavors and ingredients.
To celebrate, we caught up with Chris Stewart, executive chef and owner of The Glass Onion — a beloved West Ashley staple known for its locally sourced comfort food —as the restaurant marks 17 years in Charleston’s culinary scene.
What seasonal ingredients are you most excited to incorporate into your menus this spring and summer?
Squash, field peas, and melons are among my favorite summer vegetables.
How has Charleston’s culinary scene evolved over the past 17 years?
We have a much more diverse selection of food options today. Charleston is finally sustaining restaurants that bring more than just high-end proteins cooked really well — Kwei Fei and Kultura are two that come to mind.
What does this milestone mean to you in a competitive industry?
It’s been an interesting journey that would never have been possible without the amazingly talented people we’ve had working in the restaurant as well as those we’ve partnered with.
Charleston has truly talented farmers, brewers, millers, and distillers, and we’ve combined their products with our great team of cooks and servers at The Glass Onion — it’s worked really well. Charleston has rewarded us by letting us keep doing what we do well, which is to feed them.
Are there any specific ingredients from local farmers’ markets that you recommend people seek out this season?
I would encourage people to go to the many farmers’ markets we have available here. In the 25+ years I’ve been here, I’ve seen local produce become far more available. Additionally, I would suggest people look into CSAs like The Twenty Bag by Rooting Down Farms as well as Keegan-Filion Farm Meat Share.
How do your Alabama roots and experiences in New Orleans and the Lowcountry influence the dishes you create?
The goal here at The Glass Onion has always been to under-promise and over-deliver. We do that in our modest, comfortable location on Highway 17. We try to deliver nostalgic meals that produce a “ratatouille” experience. Our dishes are drawn from my experiences growing up with family across the South from New Orleans to Birmingham to Savannah.
What’s a seasonal dish we can try making at home using fresh, local produce? Can you share a recipe with us?
Our squash salad is a simple brine and a different way to enjoy yellow squash. Thinly sliced squash with fresh mint, parmesan, red wine vinegar, garlic, and olive oil.
Editor’s note: Find the recipe at the end of the article.
What other local restaurants around Charleston have you been enjoying lately?
As parents, we don’t get out often, but when we do, it’s near our house on James Island. Places that we really enjoyed brunch at recently are Kwei Fei, The James, and Kultura.
The Glass Onion Squash salad recipe
Ingredients for Salad:
2 med. yellow squash
1/4 c. fresh mint, cut into ribbons
1/2 c. toasted almonds, chopped or slivered
Parmesan wedge (for grating)
Bibb lettuce for plating
Ingredients for House Vinaigrette :
1/4 c. red wine vinegar
1 Tbsp, Creole mustard (or whole grain)
2 tsp. minced garlic (~2 med. cloves)
2 tsp. minced shallot (~1/2 med. shallot)
1 1/2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
3/4 c. vegetable oil
1/3 c. EVOO
2 tsp. kosher salt
1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
Preparation for Vinaigrette (Yield: 1 cup):
1. Combine vinegar, mustard, garlic, shallots, and lemon juice in a food processor or blender; blend thoroughly.
2. Gradually add olive oil and vegetable oil while the machine is running. The mixture should emulsify (come together) into a relatively thick consistency.
3. Season with salt + pepper.
Preparation for Salad (Yield: 4-6 servings):
1. Cut squash into thin slices.
2. Toss with mint and house vinaigrette.
3. Layer bibb lettuce in a bowl and spoon squash mixture into middle.
4. Top with almonds and freshly grated parmesan cheese and serve.
